question

Note everyone has diferant ways of doing things some suit some people some suit others.

I have put some thoughts down for you, but this may NOT suit you these are just things to think about, in your diagram.

Number one really spend the extra and get a multiplus as its all combined and you get more info on the VRM and locally re power usage from grid when you do have it. so strip some other gear out and makew it simplier

do away with the DC to DC unit and even MAYBE the starter battery connection. do away with the fuse to the MPPT as there is one inside the unit anyway, do away with the Lynx unit Also by getting a multiplus you reduce a few fuses anyway, and put a Cyrix Li in to charge from the SUV alternator.

series your solar panels as you get more power on cloudy days and mornings and evenings, BUT be careful of shade on any one panel as it will reduces both, but overall through the day you should be much better off, USUALLY

your batteries allready have a built in BMS so no need for any protection there. (the bigger they are the better you will find)

all your main items are fused keep these fuses close to the battery, dont double FUSE,

also no need for a big fuse on the battery output, (your choice)

Anyway your diagram is fine but way to much added thats really not needed, (In my opinion)

I have stripped some gear out of it see below. so redo the drawing and remove the Lynx and install a Negative Bus bar fuses as well or leave it there as Its a nice fuse holder etc

re your aux fuse box everything in the box is fused so You dont need to fuse the main incoming connection too the box.

The drawing below i have not fully complete and its just a ruff modification of yours, but you should get the idea I think.

Either the previous poster knows more about your system than you have posted or there are some points of contention.

The DC-DC converter will work with a smart alternator, which the Cyrix will not. It will also give better charging performance. I have a cyrix in my system, cheaper and simpler.

The series/parallel also depends on your panel specs. If they are 20v O/C then I would do series. If they are more like 40v then I would parallel for better shading resistance.

It is good practive to fuse batteries as close to the battery as possible as you showed.

Victron do battery chargers as well of course. . .

I like what you've done with the shunt, and the Lynx, (just make sure you wire it in the right way around - and not the way shown on your diagram)

We've just put a very similar setup into our can, although it's slightly more complex as it's a DIY LiFePo4 battery with external BMS, so we've had to add in some BatteryProtects to allow us to separately control charge and discharge loads. One small thing to bear in mind. The Orion TR Smart doesn't actually connect in to the Cerbo GX (or at least ours can't) as they don't have a comms port. We can connect to it with the Victron Connect app, but it is ignored by our Victron Pi.

I really like using the Lynx for maxi distribution. You can save a lot of money using a Lynx Power-in and adding your own M8x25 bolts, nuts and springs washers. The Lynx Distributor circuit doesn't work unless you use the Lynx Shunt which is far more expensive than the smartshunt.

@Jordash184 @drlbradley@dazey77@Paul B

Thank you all for your responses.

@Jordash184 indeed, the Orion has no VE direct port, something I am surprised I did not realize. I suppose it is not necessary, since it is only active when the vehicle is on. I thought about using the lynx power in, but I decided to go with the Lynx Distributor because it also acts as a fuse block, and space is at a premium in my vehicle. What do you mean by "The Lynx Distributor circuit doesn't work unless you use the Lynx Shunt which is far more expensive than the smartshunt"? I am just planning to use it as a busbar and fuse block. It will still work for that right?

@drlbradley are you referring to wiring the shunt the right way around? If so, I was aware of that, but have fixed it in the updated diagram below.

@dazey77 I am using a smart alternator, which is why I have the Orion.

@Paul B I have taken your advice and the advice found in other forum posts, and switched to a Multiplus. I need the Orion since my vehicle has a smart alternator. As for the series vs parallel solar panels, I need to learn more about solar and make a decision about whether I will go with series or parallel.

Thank you all for your help thus far. I have created an updated diagram below, which uses a Multiplus and 100AH batteries instead of 75. From everything I have read, it seems like that is the way to go.

I'm just about to install a system that includes some of these components in my motorhome. The Lynx Distributor can be powered to show the fuse status (on the LEDs) even without the Lynx Shunt and Power In. (This is what @Jordash184 is referring to. ) You can create a cable that has USB on one end , and the RJ11 (?) connector on the grey cable supplied with the Lynx, and then use one of the Cerbo USB ports to provide power. (Infact if you arent using the Touch50 screen with that Cerbo, you can use the port next to the HDMI socket as this one is usb-power-only and not usb-data). There is a post on the forum about this.

Re the SmartShunt - yes I meant wiring it in the correct direction!