question

mr-b avatar image
mr-b asked

Wiring an Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30 Isolated DC/DC charger on a 2018 Winnebago View

Hello, I'm trying to install the Orion-Tr 12/12-30 Isolated DC/DC charger in my RV. The instructions seem very straight forward but when I add all of the other components it becomes confusing for me. I have included a sketch of the current wiring. It is my understanding that when the engine is running the battery banks are combined via a 1g wire for charging. If I wire in the Orion via the maximum 6g wire wouldn't the 2 banks still be combined via the stock 1g wire going between the 2 banks? I would appreciate any input.

Thanks!

RV wiring sketch pdf.pdf

wiring
rv-wiring-sketch-pdf.pdf (32.6 KiB)
2 |3000
Toggle Comment visibility. Current Visibility: Viewable by all users

Up to 8 attachments (including images) can be used with a maximum of 190.8 MiB each and 286.6 MiB total.

3 Answers
d-winterburn avatar image
d-winterburn answered ·

I'm sure you're missing something with your sketch? The existing 1 AWG cable must be connected from the chassis battery to the house battery bank with an isolator installed by Winnebago. If it is, then you will end up with it competing with the Victron. It won't cause any problems but I'm confused as to why you require the Victron if in fact you already have a Battery Isolator Manager (BIM) installed.

2 comments
2 |3000
Toggle Comment visibility. Current Visibility: Viewable by all users

Up to 8 attachments (including images) can be used with a maximum of 190.8 MiB each and 286.6 MiB total.

mr-b avatar image mr-b commented ·

Thank you for your response. The battery mode solenoid and disconnect relay in the sketch connect the battery banks when the engine is running or when the battery boost switch is pushed. The original coach did not come with LiFePo4 batteries so the solenoid combined the two banks when the engine was running to charge from the alternator and isolated them when not. I’m told by the LiFePo4 battery manufacturer and Victron that the new batteries will draw too much power from the alternator and burn it up at low rpm. That is the purpose of the Orion-Tr smart charger it regulates and limits the charge.

The solenoid is activated by what appears to be wired like a 3 way switch between the Battery boost and I’m guessing an ignition run switch. I’m thinking that if I can disconnect the ignition activation I can solve my isolation problem and still maintain the battery boost function.

What do think?

0 Likes 0 ·
Trina avatar image Trina mr-b commented ·

You will have to find out for sure where the "trigger" (solenoid) wire goes to. If you then wired a push (-/temporary start boost) constant switch (the kind you have to hold down to connect) you should be good.

Then when you have an off vehicle and need to jump it via the old solenoid setup you simply hold down the temporary push button to trigger the old solenoid relay to connect the house to the high tension (amp) system to run the starter. You could ALSO wire the old solenoid directly to the ignition "start" terminal but then you wouldn't retain that cool optional control and the house would always function as an assist -not the best thing but if you didn't have a good temp push button handy.

The only critical part is that your old system solenoid set up does NOT have any way to be left "on" once the vehicle is running. So if you ONLY had a toggle switch then place it in-line between the key "start" terminal and the solenoid field and then you would only have the house as a boost when BOTH the toggle was flipped to "on" -AND- the key was being held on "start".


And that actually might be the easiest way to do it. As long as the wire from the older solenoid system is moved from the "run" to the"start" position on the ignition (key) switch.then you get both functions as needed EVEN if you forget to turn the boost switch off (it will only energize the old solenoid when you turn the key to start the starter motor)!

0 Likes 0 ·
jaywolfe avatar image
jaywolfe answered ·

You need to remove the connections to the solenoid that combines the batteries when you start the engine (trombetta ).and remove it.

This keeps the house and engine batteries isolated..

It also means your emergency battery switch won't work.

You can then fit your victron dc to dc smart charger via the instructions.... from batt to batt and the automatic battery sense will recognise when your engine is running and start charging etc and work as designed.

You can't have both


1 comment
2 |3000
Toggle Comment visibility. Current Visibility: Viewable by all users

Up to 8 attachments (including images) can be used with a maximum of 190.8 MiB each and 286.6 MiB total.

Trina avatar image Trina commented ·

Well you CAN but you'll need.either a different setup or your "emergency switch" will look remarkedly like one of a pair of battery jumper cables!

0 Likes 0 ·
thomdukes avatar image
thomdukes answered ·

What if you left the old house battery as a back up to the starter battery. Just unhook it from the house system. Then you could just run power and ground from the alternator to the new lifepo4 battery bank through the DC to DC charger. You are running new wiring and adding a little weight, but that shouldn’t be a big deal. Am I missing something?

1 comment
2 |3000
Toggle Comment visibility. Current Visibility: Viewable by all users

Up to 8 attachments (including images) can be used with a maximum of 190.8 MiB each and 286.6 MiB total.

thomdukes avatar image thomdukes commented ·
Sorry, just noticed this post is a couple years old. Did you ever figure it out?


0 Likes 0 ·