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gyrex avatar image
gyrex asked

MultiPlus II AC bypass switch help

I've just read the Wiring Unlimited guide - what an amazing and educational resource! Thank you so much to Victron and Margreet Leeftink for writing this, I've really learnt so much about some basic electrical theory.

There's an interesting section in the guide where it suggests running a bypass switch.


This makes complete sense in order to isolate the inverter from the grid and loads in order to be able to do maintenance etc. but I have a couple of questions:

  1. Is a "bypass switch" the same thing as a "changeover switch" such as the Hager SF463? https://www.hagerelectro.com.au/e-catalogue/energy-distribution/control-indication/manual-changeover-switches/changeover-switches/sf463/18978.htm
  2. If it's the same as a changeover switch, how would the switch be wired logically? I've tried working this out but it's not making sense to me and I'm hoping someone might be able to help me understand how this should work?

I've got a diagram below which is how I think it should be wired but I'm trying to understand where the AC-In would be wired to.

I thought maybe that AC-In would be wired into the changeover switch in parallel with the AC-out but I thought this might introduce a loop and this would be a bad idea?

Then I thought maybe it should be wired into the output of the MCB but then I'd have to add an isolator and this didn't make sense and doesn't follow the schematic depicted in the wiring unlimited guide.

Would really appreciate some help here from some experts :)

Multiplus-IIwiring diagram
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7 Answers
daryl avatar image
daryl answered ·

back to between the MCB & changeover switch

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gyrex avatar image gyrex commented ·

Thanks again for your help Daryl! Like this?

If I do this, even if I switch the changeover switch to mains power, I'm still supplying power to the AC-In of the MP2 which doesn't conform to the diagram set out in the Wiring Unlimited Guide which, when switched, bridges AC-In and AC-Out.

Also, isn't there some danger in that if someone does flick the changeover switch to grid that they'd assume that there's no power being supplied to the 'generator' (that it's isolated) and that it's potentially safe to work on?

Are you able to help me please @Rob Duthie?

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Rob Duthie avatar image Rob Duthie gyrex commented ·

Hi

Yes you need to install proper AC transfer change over switch which has break before make contacts and lockout.

Which totally isolates the inverter from the grid, as in above diagram 6.6 AC bypass switch.

Regards

Rob D

NZ

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daryl avatar image daryl gyrex commented ·

The more you post gyrex, the more I suspect we are buying the same system from the same installer.

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raphael303 avatar image
raphael303 answered ·

I believe nobody really has answered your original question 1.

No, a changeover switch is NOT the same as a bypass switch as displayed in the drawing by victron.
A changeover switch is ONLY ONE HALF of a bypass switch. With it you could switch the Grid from the input of the multi over to the input of the house.

BUT since the output of the multi is connected to the house you would then have Grid-AC on the output of the multi, but not on the input.

So you need ANOTHER switch, which disconnects the output from the multi from the house and changes it over to the output of the first switch, which then is grid power.

You COULD do it with TWO changeover switches. But the would be a very bad idea, because wrong use of the switches could lead to exactly what I described above.

So you really need a bypass switch, which is two switches in one. I don't know of one. Sorry.

As an alternative you could just use one changeover switch on the output of the multi. To changeover the house from the multi to the grid directly. This would leave the multi connected to the grid, but without anything on the output. That would not hurt and accomplish having the house uninterrupted on the grid.

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nikbok avatar image
nikbok answered ·

What do You think about this idea?

One click bypass switch (semi-automatic). Combination of manual change-over switch (MCS) and automatic transfer switch (ATS). When MCS is manually switched to bypass, ATS will automatically recognise grid input wich is prioritised and disconnect secondary source (inverters) from the house (loads) and connect bypass(grid). When switched back to "normal/inverter" position "grid" on ATS will go down and ATS will switch over to secondary source (inverters). With decent ATS, automatic switching can be done in 2-5ms.

bypass-v2.jpg



bypass-v2.jpg (956.6 KiB)
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raphael303 avatar image
raphael303 answered ·

This idea is only a bypass if you manually break the circuit-breaker on the left. Before you break that one the multiplus will still have grid input.

I don't know if that is a problem in the long term, but really don't think so.

Nevertheless, this allows you to bypass. just not with one turn of a switch.


As for the ATS. The one in the image I'd certainly not use... Looks a little bit too... uhm.. foreign-certified to me.

And, why use an ATS anyways? It doesn't need to be automatic for your idea. It can be manual. You win nothing by it being automatic, since you manually break breaker on the right anyways.


So you could just forget the right circuit breaker and use a manual changeover switch instead of the ATS. Then, once you turn the manual changeover, break the circuit on the right and you have your bypass.



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nikbok avatar image nikbok commented ·

First, when you tripp change-over switch (hager) to position 2 (bypass) it will disconnect CB on the left from the grid and ATS will automatically disconnect CB on the right from the AC loads. Doing so multis will be disconnected from grid as well as from AC loads, which is pupose of bypass switch.

Multies will still be powered by DC and fully functional BUT disconnected from AC and what is more important AC loads will be powerd from grid, enabling you to service multies.

Second, CBs on the left and right (in light blue) does not have anything to do with bypass switch, they are there purely for safety. You do not need to touch them at all.

Third, yes - you could do the same with two manual change-over switches (COS), I just find this combo easier to use and less to think about. Position I - inverters , Position II - bypass.

With two manual COS you would need to switch left COS first and then switch right COS to go to bypass and other way arround (first right and then left) when going back to normal inverter mode. Possible but not as nice as mine semi-auto ;)

As for the this ATS, well yes, it is from china as our phones, computers and all other stuff made in china but branded with western brands and sold for 10x the price.

Do you have suggestion on solid reliable ATS?

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raphael303 avatar image raphael303 nikbok commented ·
I see. I didn't get the Hager was a changeover. Thought it was just a breaker.

Alright. Seems smart to me! :)

As for the ATS from China. The point is not that is made IN China.
The point is if it is made FOR China.

A European product made in China according to European standards, quality testet to European standards is totally fine. See phones, computers.

A Chinese Product made to European standards is totally fine, see DJI.

A Chinese Product made to Chinese standards... well... not so much. See AliExpress, sort of.

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Rob Duthie avatar image
Rob Duthie answered ·

Using a solid state ATS would not be compliant due to that it needs to be mechanically isolated.

The ones i use which are compliant are from Smart gen in China

They are solid built and the controller can be auto and manual control.

It has built in genstart contact etc.

This is what i use in my transfer and control off grid and on grid applications.

with Victron inverters.

Also note this do not use power like the contactor type ones do with hum etc.

https://www.smartgen.cn/product/100

https://www.smartgen.cn/product/192

Regards

Rob D

NZ

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ronski avatar image
ronski answered ·

My system is installed, and up and running, I've used the method as shown in the wiring unlimited handbook, and as posted in the very first post in this thread. I'm using a Quattro 48/10000.

The AC side of the install was done by electricians, and they used two rather expensive change over switches.

inverter-bypass-circuit.png

My full system schematic can be viewed at this link as well, as even though its only 533KB the system will not let me attach it. Actually it didn't like the filename!



schematic.jpg


Odd, it lets me attach this


switch-gear-wiring.jpg



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ronski avatar image ronski commented ·

Forgot this picture.



switchgear.jpg

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switchgear.jpg (137.4 KiB)
sharpener avatar image
sharpener answered ·

Or an isolator on the input to the inverter and just a single one of these DiN-rail mounting switches to select whether the loads are connected to the AC-Out or the incoming grid.

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Craig Chamberlain avatar image Craig Chamberlain commented ·
This is the setup I've got on mine. I think it's better actually because it gives you the flexibility to power up the inverter for battery charging or firmware updates etc but still have your AC-Out 1 loads connected to the grid to avoid interruption until the inverter is ready to take over again.
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sharpener avatar image sharpener Craig Chamberlain commented ·

Yes, the isolator is mandatory anyway so the single switch is all you need add. And unlike some of the configurations described upthread it is foolproof and does not rely on cable ties(!) or sequencing instructions.

Alternatively in the same space you could get get this changeover contactor plus a 6A mcb to protect the coil circuit and serve as a manual control. Then if the inverter develops a fault while you are away it automatically fails over to the grid.

A previous poster suggested this is not compliant with the grid code as (unlike the inverter's grid isolation cct) there is only one set of isolating contacts, but IMO the likelihood of them becoming welded in a way that will connect AC-Out to the grid is pretty small.

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