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David avatar image
David asked

Why does my Multiplus not go into AES when it should?

I have an EasyPlus 12/1600/70 and it is all configured and setup. But I have been noticing it is not going into Low Power mode reliably. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not, despite the criteria for AES activation being met.

Hopefully the screenshots below will illustrate ....

VE.Bus State:

screenshot-2023-07-03-at-11-37-57-monty-vrm-portal.png

So for periods of the day it is stuck in the "Inverting" state for hours.

AES is configured so it turns off when the Load is above 69W and turns on when the Load drops below 46W.

aes.png

Now basically the only load during the time above in the chart is an AC Compressor fridge that turns itself on and off (and when it is off, a relay actually disconnects the fridge from the AC supply so there is literally zero watts drawn - not even the interior light will come on). This draws when running around the 52W mark, but always would wake the Inverter as the initial compressor in-rush power is more than 69W.

(I changed the AES mode from search mode to modified sine wave mode as well to see if that made any difference. It did not).

The chart below for the same time period as above shows this entire time is very consistant and repeatable.

screenshot-2023-07-03-at-11-38-04-monty-vrm-portal.png

You can see from above the AC Load goes from present to nothing consistantly as the fridge turns on and off and I would expect the AES to work just as consistantly.

This Multiplus is installed in a Motorhome and nothing else is being turned on & off, or plugged in & out during this time. The only activity is the fridge going on and off as Compressor fridges do.

I made the following Pivot chart below using a download file for a smaller time period so the numbers can be seen better.

I will try and explain the chart ....

The Yellow block shows the inverter mode - when it is low, it is in AES mode, and when high it is in Inverter mode.
The Blue lines going up and down is the AC Load - basically when the fridge turns on and goes off. The Purple horizontal dotted line is the AES ON threshold, so when the blue line drops below that purple line, AES should be reactivated.

easyplus-vebus-issue.png

You can see that for some periods, the AES mode starts as it should (the yellow block is only higher when the blue is above the threshold), but there are two significant sets of time when the Multiplus is not reverting to AES when it should.

I added a line showing the Battery SOC, obtained from a BMV-712. I don't believe there is any battery SOC level connected to how AES functions, but added it for info. And in the second period of being stuck in Inverting state, the battery level at the start of it is quite a bit higher than the first period as well, so I cannot see a link from Battery SOC level to AES.

The other thing I wondered about is if this is linked to solar in any way (purely as it seems to be stuck in Inverting state within daylight hours) but this would mean the Cerbo GX must be controlling the Multiplus AES function and is linked to how the SmartSolar is working.

Anyone has any ideas what is going on here, and why my AES is not working as it should?


MultiPlus Quattro Inverter Charger
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11 Answers
Paul B avatar image
Paul B answered ·

try making the difference between start and stop greater. also upgrade the fw to the latest version.

try the fw update first.


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David avatar image David commented ·

Firmware update could be worthwhile. (nothing in release notes about AES functionality however between my current version and latest version)


Don't think changing the settings will make any difference though. it is not going into AES when the AC load is 0W, so just how low do I need to go??
And if I go much higher, AES will kick in while the fridge is running.


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David avatar image
David answered ·

Looks like the option to update the MP Firmware is a bit flaky as well?

Tried to do that but after a few stages the system told me the GX OS version was too old and I should update to the latest version.

So I did so, and the Multiplus then is not featured in the list of products I can update? So much for updating the GX OS to let me update the MP Firmware?!

Before the Cerbo GX Update ...

screenshot-2023-07-04-at-00-11-51-monty-vrm-portal.png

And after the Cerbo GX OS update

screenshot-2023-07-04-at-00-15-00-monty-vrm-portal.png


(If I switch back to the old OS release, I get the Multiplus Device back in the list, so looks like a pure firmware version limitation)


EDIT: Within the Control Panel, I saw an message saying there was an update to the MK3 (module?) and did I want to update. Thought may as well - and now when I scan for Firmware Updates, I get the Multiplus back in the list. Bit of a hidden one there :)

I also noticed a change within the Control Panel (I think, anyway) that instead of saying the Multiplus is in "Low Power", it says it is in "AES Mode". That is more accurate of course, but I am wondering if it is more than just some words being edited, so decided out of curiosity to not do the MP firmware update yet but see if there is any difference in the way the MP works after the Cerbo GX update. I don't think there *should* be, but worth checking I think.



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David avatar image
David answered ·

Failed to switch back to AES mode again this afternoon. Bit earlier than usual - yesterday it failed to revert at 15:30 and the day before it failed to revert to AES mode at 15:12. Todays time was 13:18
But I plugged in a solar panel to the second MPPT and it is a sunny day. Relevance? well, I don't think there should be any but nothing really explains why this is happening.

I turned off both Solar Controllers now to see if there is a link to charging. One other aspect could be temperature? Obviously as the day progresses, the air temp increases. It never gets that hot though - checking the temperature of the locker the MP is fitted it, we are looking at about the 24C mark at the point AES fails to activate and when it does reactivate, it is when the temp is starting to drop. 24C is hardly hot though, and I have a temp-controlled fan that comes on to cool the locker as well so it never gets really hot.

Anyone from Victron can confirm or otherwise if temperature is linked to AES mode activation or not? When AES starts to work again (which should be around 20:30 - 21:30 if the previous pattern repeats, I might try and warm it up a bit and see if AES stops working again? (maybe have a heavy load for 5 minutes?). Solars been off for around 20 minutes and the Multiplus is still "Inverting" despite there being zero AC load, so that looks unlikely to be the cause.

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David avatar image
David answered ·

Further analysis of a download with multiple examples of the Multiplus being in "Inverter mode" when it should be in AES Mode (i.e. load below the threshold for AES activation), there is a distinct pattern of it being stuck in this mode only when the temperature is above a certain value.
The only time there is a combination of zero load and Multiplus in "Inverter mode" when the temperature is at a lower value is just after it has been providing power and it reverts to AES Model shortly afterwards.

I am monitoring the locker and not the Multiplus itself note, so the "cutover" temp I am seeing will be lower than the device temp, but is still only 23C, which is not hot for a smallish locker filled with Multiplus, MPPT controllers and a Cerbo GX. Also I will note that there is no error code for overheating or anything for the Mutliplus.

Right now as I type this, the Multiplus is in "Inverter" mode with no load and the locker temp is at 27C. Once that drops to 23C or 22C, it will go into AES I am sure.

I am pretty sure this issue is temp related, but there is no reason why AES should not be active at warmer unit temperatures. If anything, it should be an advantage as it will be generating less heat in that model and allowing it to cool down?


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Paul B avatar image
Paul B answered ·

I would suggest that you run the cerbo on the latest release fw when looking for issues.

and you will need to get the multi up to fw505

and then advise what aes issues you have.


there is no point in doing aes testing when the systems ie the multi is not on its latest fw

having the cerbo then on beta fw is also not a good idea, not when we are looking for issues that is

lets get everything on the latest release versions then look at the aes.


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David avatar image
David answered ·

To update this thread, everything is on the latest firmware and the problem continues. AES fails to start randomly for no apparent reason.

screenshot-2023-07-11-at-16-23-08-monty-vrm-portal.png


I wonder if anyone from Victron Energy would care to comment or explain?


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David avatar image
David answered ·

Firmware status

screenshot-2023-07-11-at-16-28-58-monty-vrm-portal.png


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David avatar image
David answered ·

I saw some comment about AES only operates in "standalone mode". Note sure if that means if there is anything at all connected to the VE.Bus or if it is working in parallel with other Multipluses?

But just to make sure, I unplugged the RJ45 cable from the Cerbo so now the Easyplus was totally on its own. Made absolutely no difference whatsoever. still didn't go into AES mode when it should have. (and of course, the occasions when it DID go into AES previously, it WAS connected to the Cerbo, so if AES doesn't work when connected, THAT would be wrong as well).

I am not sure whether to tell my supplier the Multiplus is faulty and to fix it as I doubt they will have any more idea than me about this, and Victron seem totally uninterested in commenting on this matter here, so they don't know or don't care either.

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klim8skeptic avatar image klim8skeptic ♦ commented ·
@Wildebus Standalone = off grid, no AC input. AES wont work in parallel of multi phase systems.

Is it a basic fridge? Cyclic defrost, mechanical thermostat? Any electronics in it?

Never used AES myself, I found it dangerous to turn on my grinder, only for it to start up a couple of seconds later.

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David avatar image
David answered ·

Now to the suggestions of "try this", "try that", "maybe Fridge stopping AES working", etc, It would be interesting to see how those suggestions can be compatible with how the AES decides to randomly start working with no difference in the setup, configuration or loads, such as just after midnight last night ....

screenshot-2023-07-23-at-10-45-03-monty-vrm-portal.png

Any suggestions on how to get AES RELIABLY operating, keeping in mind it works to its own drumbeat with no alterations in the setup whatsoever would be interesting.


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Masquelier Pierre avatar image
Masquelier Pierre answered ·

Hello, you're lucky your AES works from time to time, mine never starts. I tried several settings without success. The temperature in the north of the France is 18°C so it's not related to the temperature, at least I hope.
I tried a lot of configurations without succes.
My hypothesis is that the Easy solar has a self consumption (31W) greater than the other products. then the threshold in the common software is not compatible. It's a crack in the system.
Pierre

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David avatar image David commented ·

I am sadly not surprised others have a similar issue :(

The EasyPlus and the EasySolar should not really be different to other regular Mutlipluses. The only difference between the EasyPlus and Multiplus is the presence of the RCD and MCB setup,some wiring for more external plugs plus a taller case. And the only difference between the EasySolar and EasyPlus is the 100/50 (I think?) inside its even taller case, and its extra cabling. When I look at the device list in VRM, it tells me I have a "MultiPlus Compact 12/1600/70-16" rather than a EasPlus. I suspect you will see an identical device for your EasySolar?

I am still minded to think the issue is temperature related as the 'typical' temperature in the locker where my unit is installed tends to be lower when the AES is working as it should, and higher when it is NOT working as it should. But we are talking just a couple of degrees, and pretty low temperatures at that (low 20 Cel's), and not something that should really have any impact even if there was in the design a "no AES when hot" factor.

If your temp is at 18C then that theory is wrong anyway, unless there is some electronics in the system that is much too temperature sensitive or has failed? (I used to be a board engineer on Mini-Computers and other electronics and would often use freeze-spray and hairdryers to pinpoint individual components that had thermal failure and thereby cause intermittant issues).

Who knows, maybe someone from Victron will one day bother to comment?

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David avatar image
David answered ·

Well, I am convinced that the issue with Low Mode Mode failing to engage is temperature related - when I look at the charts when the AES does activate, it is ALWAYS when the temperature is at the lowest points. See the lastest 2 days below .....

screenshot-2023-08-24-at-09-59-44-monty-vrm-portal.png

The thing is, we are not talking about high temperatures in any way here either, around the low 20 Celcius mark which no electronic components should be sensitive to from what I understand from my experience (electronics/electrical/computer service engineer) so there is some kind of fault in the unit I am sure.

Just as an FYI, a while back I relocated the temp sensor from just sitting inside the electrics locker where all my Victron kit is located to physically inside the casing of the EasyPlus 12/1600 so it is a more exact representation of the unit temperature, so that temp chart above is a pretty good indication of the unit. All it is doing in that time above is occasionally (around 40% of the time) providing around 55W to a fridge. no other AC loads are active so the temperature fluctuation is more due to ambient temps than device heat generation, hence when it is coolest just before sun up.


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honu avatar image honu commented ·
Hello,

Did you solved your AES problem ?
I got nearly the same experience as you did but i solved it ... kind of.
The "Start AES" parameter is completly off, for my situation, i need aes to start under 70W and stop over 100W, i need to use 400W as a parameter for it to start working under 100W...
In my opinion their current sensor is unprecise and just give some 0... 0.5.... 1 A. Which mean the parameters are not as precise as they seems, 0.5A (I'm under 230V) is like 115W already. Maybe meaning this AES mode can work but with load far from each others, just 50W seems pretty small.
Dunno if you see what i mean, my english is not amazing.

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