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I've assembled a few systems but this is the first system I've specced. It's designed for a small van (Renault Trafic) with a fairly small demand - USB chargers, fridge, heater.
Orion-tr 30A, SmartSolar 75/15, BlueSmart 12/17, BatteryProtect 12/24-65A, BMV-700, 100Ah AGM battery.
I'm not sure whether I need a BMS or not.
hi @Osian diagram looks like a nice neat solution. You won’t need a BMS as you are not using Lithium batteries. You might benefit from a small isolation/fuse for the incoming PV link so that you can safely and easily isolate the solar panels. Lastly I assume by ‘heater’ you are referring to a diesel fuel heater that you are supplying power to operate the fan or something similar - if you want to use the battery to generate heat you are talking a significant power draw. Have fun.
@Osian :
In this scheme, if there is no solar input how are you going to prevent that the Victron AGM battery is not going to be charged from the Renault Traffic Bosch starter battery when the engine is not running ? If it is a recent Traffic it has a modern alternator which is managed by the Traffic´s engine management system / CAN bus, and there is no D+ signal to indicate that the engine is running ..... ? If the Orion takes up to 30A from the starter battery, you may/will end up with a dead starter battery ?
I´ve considered doing something similar in an even smaller van (a Renault Kangoo, with start/stop system) and my Renault garage strongly advised me not to connect directly to the starter battery, but only via the cigarette lighter (accessoiries) circuit. In this way it is taken into account by the engine management system as an ordinary consumer, but obviously you´re limited to 10A max.....
Putting it onto an accessory circuit won't limit how much it can draw, it will overload the circuit capability and blow the fuse. The cable isn't designed for such a draw, so if you do put a larger fuse in it will melt the cable. I could use a relay so it is switched with the accessory circuit but I don't think its necessary.
I believe you want the main battery fuse located before the battery isolation switch, not after; wired as close to the battery positive post as possible and in any event no more than ~180cm from the post.
You don't specify wire sizes. If you have not already anticipated this, various online calculators and phone apps will give you the correct sizing for your run lengths. For a small installation like yours, go ahead and use a 3% voltage drop input to give you a bit of margin / future proofing. The total wire cost difference won't be all that much.
OK, an easy ammendment to make.
I haven't worked out exact placement of the battery and control panel yet. I have my own chart for wire gauge, I do tend to go the next step up anyway. The whole system should cost around £1000 and a few extra pounds here and there will be well spent
Very easy to read your diagram. I would use a switchable breaker on the feed wire for the Orion so you have positive isolation if you are doing maintenance. Even though you feel that you have a clear understanding of when that wire will be "live," positive mechanical isolation is a good practice for all power inputs to your electrical cabinet.
The solar requires a switchable breaker (or ideally a double breaker) so you can isolate that power source. Since the solar (-) does not naturally share a ground with the van chassis, the double breaker is preferrable. However, many people do use a single breaker since the Orion does not isolate the solar (-) from the battery (-), which is also bound to the chassis.
While a battery switch is normally used as you have shown, for a smaller system like this, a switchable 100A breaker could be substituted for the switch and fuse, and save you a bit of wiring complexity.
