For some reason the sales redirected me to this page - because its a private purchase no chance to get "official" support.It seems everything is locked to the sales chain - no chance for (re)using old stuff in a sustainable way of thinking.
Setup:
I have an Phoenix Multi Compact 12/1600/70 in my camper connected to AC and with 2meters of 35mm² to a CSX12120-BMS120M Battery (LiFePo4).
No significant voltage losses on the battery lines (35mm³@2mtr with currents of 30A in this case)
Of course with main switch and extra fuse (175A) between.
For setup purpose I also have a datalogger running for the battery voltage added (battery terminal voltage) - it takes ~5 second snapshots.
The setup in multi is set to LIFEPO (the default) but with restricted charge current to 30A.(according manual of Battery)
For setup I have MKII and VEConfig running...
Currently the TempSensor is not connected, because the BMS in the Battery is anyway doing a compensation.
All measurements are done with good equipment (UNI T / Rigol scope etc)
DeviceData:
*CMP012162000*
*05100100062*
Phoenix Multi Compact Plus 12/1600/70
On Processor: 1806130.HEX (also shows this in VEConfig)
Small Label: E56394
BigLabel 1A052056 CMP 1216/05100100062
Recognizable Behaviour:
Multi charges battery (with current of 30A as setup) and when internal BMS switches off (~14,5V) measured Voltage increase up to 15,5V
"float" is indicated with blinking yellow LED voltage sits on 16,5V - no current into battery.
When switching on loads on camper (eg. fridge / ~8.5 A) voltage drops shortly down (~1sec)
and charger pushes energy - Current is 8,5A on charger output, but still no current into battery)
All other "channels" work properly just the DC Battery channel is crazy !
This also has effects on the voltage thresholds of Inverter of course...
It switch to early off !
- The manual of battery says that this shall be avoided in means of BMS protection and lifetime.
Also the permanent high voltage @16,5 is not good for the remaining camper electric.
The Question:
Is there a chance to setup the maximum output voltage and make a correction of the additionally ~3V of "overcharging" ?
Would a "manual" battery profile do a better job here ?
Is there a chance for battery sense (by default there is none populated...) ?
Any other "tweaks" to change measuring float voltage ? (Such as calibration)
Anybody else out there with similar effects ?
Greets Daniel