question

Hi @CaptnSnap it sounds like you would benefit from setting up DVCC in the GX in short you program the MP to the charge profile required, in the GX set the Shunt as the system SoC and voltage, this then tells the MPPT's to ignore there programed profile and read voltage and current and instead they use the data direct from the shunt. Strongly suggest having a read up on DVCC before implementing. I also use it in my system to control max charge current, where at times my system is capable of delivering higher amps than my battery spec recommends, so i enjoy the benefit of the extra in poor conditions and the DVCC throttles when in optimal conditions.

Hope this helps

@Wayne are you certain about this? "ignore their programmed profile"? I don't think that's the case. They will still use their programmed profile, but they will use shared voltage/temperature for better accuracy. As you state, DVCC offers a max charge current, which is very useful for lead-acid as they often can't handle the total current the chargers may deliver. I use this as well.

Given the OP's use of lead-acid batteries, I think we can assume they're not intelligent.

The concerns now become:

1) does OP have ESS and DVCC enabled thus overriding MPPT settings with inverter/charger settings?

2) does OP have MPPT configured properly.

OK settings for MPPT are:

I am reading through the MPPT manual and notice that the last screenshot does not have a VE Smart icon top right. Given the MPPT was installed first, could part of the issue be that we have not added it to the Smart Network? All devices appear on the VRM Portal but could it be that we have not set this up properly?

VE.Smart is for bluetooth to bluetooth connections. You should have your smartshunt and MPPT connected to GX via VE.Direct cable. Within the GX device, you enable DVCC and enable shared voltage, temperature (assuming you have smartshunt w/temp sensor) and current source:

Where I have circled the BMV, you would select the Smartshunt.

The controller appears to be set mostly correct. The absorption and float values are reasonable.

Please select the expert switch and include those settings.

Please include a photo of the smartshunt installation.

Please include smartshunt settings.

The Multi, MPPT and Smartshunt are all connected via VE Direct cables.

Out of interest, I switched DVCC on and went to select temp sensor on Smartshunt (which is definitely connected) and get this screen:

Here is the smartshunt wiring PRIOR to the sparky realising that EVERYTHING needs to go through the negative terminal - that has been resolved. But this shows the VE Direct and temp cables in place, so not sure why I cannot select Smartshunt vs Multi.

Righto. Selected "temp " in Aux Input and still can't see it so will check that it is connected properly tomorrow. Will I need to reboot anything to set the new settings?

You have all been so helpful.

So I activated DVCC and this has absolutely helped to ensure solar carries more of the load. I will sort the temperature probe, and get an up to date image of the install.

In the meantime, I think I just witnessed the false synch to 100%. Once we connected back to shorepower, I was actually watching the SoC at around 82% and wondering why there was not a higher AC contribtion to charging when it suddenly reverted to 100%. Whats interesting is that the solar is still indicating "bulk" input despite SoC being 100%.

What I am now interested in is whether this also happened 2 days ago when solar appeared to have returned the batteries to 100% SoC very quickly at around midday. This data appears to suggest that solar is keeping up with drain, but I am starting to wonder if the SoC is accurate based on your comments above.

Again, much of this will be fixed once we have twin Orion's installed to the new engines and charging both banks as we go, but in the meantime keen to hear how to tweak this to maximise our capabilities when away from shorepower.

More data:

Thoughts?

SOC will be coming from the BMV. I see your battery voltage just over 13. Guess it's the BMV settings. Maybe attach a screen shot of them.

That's the culprit. As this is a BMV setting, can't do harm. It needs to be set to absorption or just below.

Per my last post, I recommend you change the BMV charged voltage to 0.3V below absorption when on solar and 0.3V below float on shore. If you don't want to worry about changing it, use absorption. IMHO, it's more important to know what your SoC is when you DON'T have shore available.

This chart:

...confirms you are outpacing your solar and is very unhealthy for your batteries. I would get the Orions online sooner rather than later.

OK, can a clarify Snoobler that you are saying change Charge Voltage on SmartShunt settings to 14.1V when relying on solar (given current Absorption is 14.4V) and 13.5 when on Shorepower (given Float setting is 13.8)

Guess it wont hurt to change it to 13.5 now and see what happens next time we are out of the pen? Can change it n the fly when we are out and about.

Orions can't be installed until the new engines and 12V alternators get installed once they arrive from Europe (November!)

We have contemplated adding some temporary solar panels for when she is on a weekender etc, but I am starting to wonder whether a 400watt wind generator might be better. Bloody windy here in Perth so suspect that might fill a bit of a gap in power production overnight and add to the 480watt of potential solar generation during the day.

The Orions will dump 100 amps into the system while the engines are running so the batteries should be nicely topped up on our way too and from our destination but if we stay a few days and dont move, we will be relying on solar, wind or the genset to keep us in the game.