[Solved: Replacing the 1A inline fuse got the BMV working again. The fuse looked fine to my eye, but it clearly wasn't. I might have found the culprit, see picture.]
Today I tried to do a "pretty" install of my BMV-712 and it stopped working. Making it pretty meant cutting the cable that came with the BMV and crimping a new terminator, so I could route the cable out of sight.
On my first try the BMV worked fine, but I had to re-cut and re-crimp to get the cable through another small hole that I had overlooked.
At that point the BMV stopped working.
The cable is pinned out identically on both ends - blue/orange/green/gr-white/or-white/bl-white. I've re-crimped new terminators multiple times, same result. I've tested two different home-made cables, same result. Should there be a cross-over in the cable?
I've confirmed that the lead coming off the shunt has power, but was a little surprised that it showed 10.76V whereas testing the shunt directly shows 13.40. If I disconnect the UTP cable from the BMV, the lead off of the shunt reads 0.00.
Any thought before I get a replacement BMV?